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Saturday, April 19, 2008

A twist on tapas Japanese style

A twist on tapas is what a skier turned James Beard award winner SW 2007 provides. I was once a tennis pro and I like when chefs did something else first evenwhile still working in the culinary food industry or going farther later. Nobu Fukuda, co-owner of Sea Saw,
http://www.seasaw.net/
in Scottsdale, Ariz., once a member of the National Ski Patrol in Arizona from 1989 to 1999 was awarded James Beard award winner for Best Chef Southwest in 2007. Here are some of his recipes

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB120837686446720429.html


Rice Noodle Salad With Panko-Fried Shrimp

Yield: 4 servings
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
For the dressing:
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup sweet chile sauce
1/4 cup filtered or bottled water
1 small garlic clove, finely minced
1/2 Thai chile, seeded and chopped
For the sweet soy-glazed peanuts:
1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
1/4 cup sake
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
1 8-ounce package rice vermicelli noodles
1/2 pound mung bean sprouts
1 large cucumber, peeled and seeded and cut into 2-inch julienne
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup chopped scallions, green part only
12 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 large egg, well beaten
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
Vegetable or grapeseed oil PAIRINGS

Wall Street Journal wine columnists Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher suggest wine pairings for this meal.
With the dishes, Chef Fukuda recommends Riesling. We hope this wine is finally beginning to make a dent in the consciousness of Americans after years of cajoling by chefs and wine writers, who have pushed it as among the most food-friendly of wines on the planet. Winemakers and restaurateurs report that interest in Riesling has begun to increase a bit, though we're sure this is about the 100th time we've been assured that Riesling really is about to turn a corner. The problem is that too many Americans think of Riesling as sweet and cloying because they had bad experiences with it many years ago. It's time to give Riesling another chance – and these dishes are a great way to start. There are some very good Rieslings made in the U.S., especially in northern states such as Michigan and New York, but the classic home of Riesling is Germany. Look for "Riesling" and "Kabinett" on the label and you'll likely get a lovely, fairly light wine that will have a fetching balance of acidity and fruitiness. If you see "trocken" on a label, that means the wine is dry. You won't often see a wine that says "Spätlese trocken," but, if you do, grab it – that's a wine made from very ripe grapes that are fermented dry, leaving a wine of amazing intensity. One other thought: While too many people think of Champagne and other fine sparkling wines as holiday treats, they're actually delicious food wines, especially with sushi and sashimi. Their great acidity and zesty bubbles would make these dishes really dance – or swim, perhaps. Email us at wine@wsj.com.

• Make the dressing: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.

• To make the sweet soy-glazed peanuts: In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the peanuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool. When cool, cover with another piece of parchment and lightly crush with a rolling pin.

• In a large pot of boiling water, cook the noodles for 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and cook for 1 minute more. Drain both through a colander and run under cold water until cool. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.

• In a large bowl, toss the rice noodles, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and scallions with all but 1/4 cup of the dressing and divide among four serving bowls.

• Just before serving, fry the shrimp: Dip the shrimp first in the beaten egg and then coat with the breadcrumbs. In a medium saucepan, bring a 1/4 inch of oil to 325 degrees (or until a piece of shrimp sizzles upon contact). Immediately transfer shrimp to the hot oil and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes total. Top each salad portion with 3 fried shrimp, drizzle with the reserved dressing, and top with the crushed peanuts. Serve immediately.

* * *
Hamachi With Grapefruit and Avocado

Yield: 4 amuse-bouche-size servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
4 sections ruby red grapefruit, all traces of peel and pith removed
4 slices ripe avocado
4 slices very-fresh raw hamachi or kampachi fish
4 thin julienned pieces fresh ginger
Yuzu kosho (this chili paste with citrus zest is optional)
2 1/2 teaspoons ponzu sauce
1/2 teaspoon grapeseed oil
Shaved black truffle or truffle oil (optional) • On each small serving plate, layer in order, from bottom to top, the grapefruit, avocado, fish, a piece of ginger and a dot of yuzu kosho, if using.

• Mix together the ponzu sauce and grapeseed oil and drizzle a few drops of the mixture over each serving, followed by the truffle, if using. Serve immediately.

* * *
Gravlax with Soy-Glazed Almonds, Pecorino, Basil Oil and Balsamic-Soy Reduction

Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1 hour
Curing time: 48 hours
1 pound center-cut wild salmon fillet, deboned
Ũ cup of sea or kosher salt
Ũ cup light-brown sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
Grated zest of 2 limes
Ũ cup roughly chopped fresh mint
Ũ cup roughly chopped fresh basil
1 cup white wine (preferably Sauvignon Blanc)
1 tablespoon Basil Oil (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon Balsamic-Soy Reduction (recipe follows)
1/8 cup shaved pecorino romano cheese
20 Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds, cut in half (recipe follows)
Mixed Asian greens, for serving (optional) • To cure the salmon: Lay plastic wrap in a 9 by 9-inch baking dish and cover with a thin layer of salt. Lay salmon, skin side down, on the layer of salt. Cover salmon with the rest of the salt. On top of salt, evenly spread a layer of brown sugar, lemon and lime zest, mint, and basil. Wrap tightly in several layers of plastic wrap, being careful not to leave any openings. Refrigerate for 48 hours. Remove, unwrap and wash the salmon under ice cold water to remove all the salt. Blot dry with paper towel and return it to the baking dish. Pour the wine over the fish, just to cover it, and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate until ready for use.

• To assemble: Slice salmon in Ũ inch slices and arrange in a fan on each plate. Drizzle over the basil oil and balsamic–soy reduction. Sprinkle the almonds and pecorino slices over the salmon and garnish with the greens, if desired.


Basil Oil
1 cup packed basil leaves, stems removed
Coarse salt
1/3 cup of olive oil • Bring a small pot of water and a large pinch of salt to a boil. Blanch basil for 15 seconds and immediately drain into a colander and run under cold water. Squeeze dry and transfer to a blender. Add oil and blend until smooth. Strain out basil through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the puree with a spoon to extract the most oil.


Balsamic-Soy Reduction
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce • In a small pan, heat vinegar and soy to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until reduced to a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes.


Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds
1/2 cup whole almonds
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin • Preheat the oven to 300° and roast the almonds on a baking sheet until golden, about 12 minutes. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the nuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool.
A twist on tapas is what a skier turned James Beard award winner SW 2007 provides. I was once a tennis pro and I like when chefs did something else first evenwhile still working in the culinary food industry or going farther later. Nobu Fukuda, co-owner of Sea Saw, in Scottsdale, Ariz., once amember of the National Ski Patrol in Arizona from 1989 to 1999 was awarded James Beard award winner for Best Chef Southwest in 2007. Here are some of his recipes

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB120837686446720429.html

Rice Noodle Salad With Panko-Fried Shrimp

Yield: 4 servings
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
For the dressing:
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup sweet chile sauce
1/4 cup filtered or bottled water
1 small garlic clove, finely minced
1/2 Thai chile, seeded and chopped
For the sweet soy-glazed peanuts:
1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
1/4 cup sake
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
1 8-ounce package rice vermicelli noodles
1/2 pound mung bean sprouts
1 large cucumber, peeled and seeded and cut into 2-inch julienne
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup chopped scallions, green part only
12 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 large egg, well beaten
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
Vegetable or grapeseed oil PAIRINGS

Wall Street Journal wine columnists Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher suggest wine pairings for this meal.
With the dishes, Chef Fukuda recommends Riesling. We hope this wine is finally beginning to make a dent in the consciousness of Americans after years of cajoling by chefs and wine writers, who have pushed it as among the most food-friendly of wines on the planet. Winemakers and restaurateurs report that interest in Riesling has begun to increase a bit, though we're sure this is about the 100th time we've been assured that Riesling really is about to turn a corner. The problem is that too many Americans think of Riesling as sweet and cloying because they had bad experiences with it many years ago. It's time to give Riesling another chance – and these dishes are a great way to start. There are some very good Rieslings made in the U.S., especially in northern states such as Michigan and New York, but the classic home of Riesling is Germany. Look for "Riesling" and "Kabinett" on the label and you'll likely get a lovely, fairly light wine that will have a fetching balance of acidity and fruitiness. If you see "trocken" on a label, that means the wine is dry. You won't often see a wine that says "Spätlese trocken," but, if you do, grab it – that's a wine made from very ripe grapes that are fermented dry, leaving a wine of amazing intensity. One other thought: While too many people think of Champagne and other fine sparkling wines as holiday treats, they're actually delicious food wines, especially with sushi and sashimi. Their great acidity and zesty bubbles would make these dishes really dance – or swim, perhaps. Email us at wine@wsj.com.

• Make the dressing: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.

• To make the sweet soy-glazed peanuts: In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the peanuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool. When cool, cover with another piece of parchment and lightly crush with a rolling pin.

• In a large pot of boiling water, cook the noodles for 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and cook for 1 minute more. Drain both through a colander and run under cold water until cool. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.

• In a large bowl, toss the rice noodles, bean sprouts, cucumber, mint, and scallions with all but 1/4 cup of the dressing and divide among four serving bowls.

• Just before serving, fry the shrimp: Dip the shrimp first in the beaten egg and then coat with the breadcrumbs. In a medium saucepan, bring a 1/4 inch of oil to 325 degrees (or until a piece of shrimp sizzles upon contact). Immediately transfer shrimp to the hot oil and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes total. Top each salad portion with 3 fried shrimp, drizzle with the reserved dressing, and top with the crushed peanuts. Serve immediately.

* * *
Hamachi With Grapefruit and Avocado

Yield: 4 amuse-bouche-size servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
4 sections ruby red grapefruit, all traces of peel and pith removed
4 slices ripe avocado
4 slices very-fresh raw hamachi or kampachi fish
4 thin julienned pieces fresh ginger
Yuzu kosho (this chili paste with citrus zest is optional)
2 1/2 teaspoons ponzu sauce
1/2 teaspoon grapeseed oil
Shaved black truffle or truffle oil (optional) • On each small serving plate, layer in order, from bottom to top, the grapefruit, avocado, fish, a piece of ginger and a dot of yuzu kosho, if using.

• Mix together the ponzu sauce and grapeseed oil and drizzle a few drops of the mixture over each serving, followed by the truffle, if using. Serve immediately.

* * *
Gravlax with Soy-Glazed Almonds, Pecorino, Basil Oil and Balsamic-Soy Reduction

Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1 hour
Curing time: 48 hours
1 pound center-cut wild salmon fillet, deboned
Ũ cup of sea or kosher salt
Ũ cup light-brown sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
Grated zest of 2 limes
Ũ cup roughly chopped fresh mint
Ũ cup roughly chopped fresh basil
1 cup white wine (preferably Sauvignon Blanc)
1 tablespoon Basil Oil (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon Balsamic-Soy Reduction (recipe follows)
1/8 cup shaved pecorino romano cheese
20 Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds, cut in half (recipe follows)
Mixed Asian greens, for serving (optional) • To cure the salmon: Lay plastic wrap in a 9 by 9-inch baking dish and cover with a thin layer of salt. Lay salmon, skin side down, on the layer of salt. Cover salmon with the rest of the salt. On top of salt, evenly spread a layer of brown sugar, lemon and lime zest, mint, and basil. Wrap tightly in several layers of plastic wrap, being careful not to leave any openings. Refrigerate for 48 hours. Remove, unwrap and wash the salmon under ice cold water to remove all the salt. Blot dry with paper towel and return it to the baking dish. Pour the wine over the fish, just to cover it, and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate until ready for use.

• To assemble: Slice salmon in Ũ inch slices and arrange in a fan on each plate. Drizzle over the basil oil and balsamic–soy reduction. Sprinkle the almonds and pecorino slices over the salmon and garnish with the greens, if desired.


Basil Oil
1 cup packed basil leaves, stems removed
Coarse salt
1/3 cup of olive oil • Bring a small pot of water and a large pinch of salt to a boil. Blanch basil for 15 seconds and immediately drain into a colander and run under cold water. Squeeze dry and transfer to a blender. Add oil and blend until smooth. Strain out basil through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the puree with a spoon to extract the most oil.


Balsamic-Soy Reduction
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce • In a small pan, heat vinegar and soy to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until reduced to a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes.


Sweet, Soy-Glazed Almonds
1/2 cup whole almonds
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin • Preheat the oven to 300° and roast the almonds on a baking sheet until golden, about 12 minutes. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, sake, soy, and mirin and cook until the liquid caramelizes and coats the nuts; remove to a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool.

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